Orchid Care & Growing Guide

Orchids (Orchidaceae) are popular houseplants with thousands of species to choose from—including some common ones that you've probably heard of, such as Phalaenopsis, Cattleya, Dendrobium, and Cymbidium.

Orchids can be pretty easy to care for if you provide the writer growing conditions—and thankfully, most have the same needs. Read on to learn more about how to care for orchids so you can have healthy plants with spectacular blooms.

Orchid Care

When you first get your orchid, it will likely be healthy and in bloom. Once the bloom falls off, the plant isn't doomed for the trash can. You can care for the orchid and get it to re-bloom.

Follow these care tips to keep an orchid alive and thriving:

• Choose a location with plenty of bright, indirect light; a south- or east-facing window is ideal.
• Allow the growing medium to dry out completely between waterings.
• Use lightweight, airy growing media designed for orchids; do not plant in potting soil.
  
• Feed with an orchid-specific fertilizer or a balanced fertilizer formula such as 20-20-20 at a diluted strength.
• Reduce fertilization during the months that your species of orchid is dormant after flowering (typically in winter).
  

Light

Orchids need bright light to produce blooms, so give the plants as many hours as possible of bright, indirect light, ideally in a south- or east-facing window. Be careful of direct sun, as it can burn the plants.

Soil

Orchids need an orchid-specific growing medium that is particularly lightweight and fast-draining, which is usually a mix of bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, and peat.

You can purchase a pre-made mix or make your own. Do not use regular potting soil or potting mix. Orchids will not thrive in regular potting soil or potting mix. Slightly acidic soil pH is ideal.

Water

Orchids need to dry out between waterings to prevent rot. If the growing medium feels dry to the touch and the pot feels light, it's probably time to water.

Orchids typically need water twice a week in the warmer months when the plant is actively growing and only once a week or less in the colder months. Use room-temperature water, and water slowly until it flows out of the pot's drainage openings. 

Before watering, look at the roots themselves. If they’re plump and white or green, that means they’re already well-watered. If they’re shriveled and gray, then they're thirsty. If they’re shriveled but spongey and black or brown, they might be rotting.

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Temperature and Humidity

Depending how they're classified, orchids do best in ranges between 50ºF and 90ºF. They prefer humidity levels from around 40 to 70 percent.

You can keep an orchid blooming longer if you provide a warm and somewhat humid environment. Don't place your orchid where it will experience cold drafts, exposure to direct sunlight, or dry air from heating vents.

Fertilizer

During the growing season, which for most orchids is spring and summer, use an orchid-specific fertilizer, following label instructions. Don't fertilize during the winter months.

Air Circulation

Orchids require good air circulation for healthy growth. If you've seen an orchid display, you'll notice each pot and plant has plenty of room around it; you shouldn't place orchids in among a group of plants.

Set it somewhere it won't touch other plants. You don't want the air around it to be stagnant, but you also don't want it to be cold or hot (as it would be if it were blowing from a vent).

Orchid Care After Flowering

After your orchid finishes flowering and flower petals drop, snip off the old flower spike (the flower spike it toward the top of the stem—don't cut off the entire stem).

You can also repot your plant into a more suitable container with a light, porous growing medium and a pot that allows for good airflow, such as unglazed clay or a pot specially designed for orchids with holes in its sides.

You do not necessarily have to repot after an orchid is done flowering, but this is a safe time to do so. Repotting during other periods of an orchids' life cycle can inhibit flowering.

Types of Orchids

About 30,000 species of orchids live in the wild along with more than 100,000 registered hybrids. Knowing the orchid variety you have is essential for its care. The majority of commonly-available orchid groups for purchase are:

• Phalaenopsis (moth orchids) have round flowers with a pronounced lip that grow on a single tall stalk arising from a whorl of fleshy, oval leaves. Flowers are usually white, purple, pink, or a combination.
• Dendrobium (cane orchids) have small flowers that grow in rows on stalks that rise from thick canes, often with several flower clusters per plant. Flowers are typically white or purple. Dendrobium leaves are narrow and emerge from the sides of the cane.
  
• Cattleya (corsage orchids) are the most frequently used orchids in corsages, Cattleya orchids have been widely hybridized, leading to a large variety of colors and forms. Some varieties are quite fragrant and many have appealing freckles, streaks, or other bicolor features.
• Cymbidium (boat orchids) have multiple flower spikes to ensure a satisfying display. Good choices for beginners include the lime green 'Chica', the yellow and red 'Showoff', or the bright pink 'Frae', all recipients of the American Orchid Society’s Highly Commended Certificate.

Pruning Orchids

Pruning an orchid allows it to have the energy for more flowers. Be sure to use a sharp and clean pruning tool to keep the risk of infection to a minimum.

Though different orchids require different pruning methods, it's generally safe to remove spent orchid flowers to refocus the plant's energy on growing new flowers.

For most orchid varieties, you can cut off the flower spike after flowering is complete. Some orchids (Phalaenopsis) may re-bloom on the same flower spike, if the spike is still green. Once it turns brown, it's safe to remove.

Propagating Orchids

Propagating orchids by seed is notoriously difficult, because the minuscule seeds need extremely specific conditions that are hard to duplicate. The most common way to propagate an orchid is by division:

1. Moisten the growing medium to make it easier to remove the plant from the container.
2. Examine the roots of the orchid, and remove damaged or dead parts that appear black, mushy, or paper-thin. Healthy roots are firm and plump.
3. Tease apart some of the roots and stems. If they won't separate by hand, use a sharp, sterile cutting tool.
4. Repot each plant in new orchid growing medium, stake if necessary, and water.
   

Potting and Repotting Orchids

If the orchid's roots are growing out of the pot excessively or the growing medium has completely broken down, it’s time to repot.

Wait until you're sure your plant is done flowering before repotting your orchid. Never repot an orchid while it's in bloom, just reduce the amount of water it receives until the blooms fade.

1. Remove from its container. Gently remove the orchid from its old container, moistening the growing medium as necessary to make it easier to slide the plant out.
2. Prune damaged roots. Cut away any dead or damaged roots with a sterile cutting tool.
3. Place in larger container. Set the orchid in the slightly larger container, and fill around the roots with fresh growing medium.
4. Stake the orchid. Because the roots won't be anchored to the medium yet, stake the plant if necessary to help it stay upright.
5. Care for as usual. Place the orchid in bright, indirect light and keep the soil moist. Eventually, new roots will grow throughout the medium and attach to the pot anchoring the orchid.
   

How to Get Orchids to Bloom and Rebloom

An orchid should bloom at least once a year, though species vary in their bloom cycles. Flowers generally last, on average, two to four months.

If your orchid won't bloom, some varieties like Phalaenopsis can be stimulated to bloom by dropping the temperature down for a few nights. The most reliable way to ensure re-bloom is to provide the proper light, moisture, temperature, humidity, food, and growing medium.

Common Pests & Plant Diseases

Orchids don't tend to have major pest problems. But they can be appetizing for common plant pests, including aphids, fungus gnats, mealybugs, spider mites, scale, thrips, and whiteflies.

Most pests can be eliminated with a gentle brush of the hand, a jet of water, or spraying them with insecticidal soap. Another solution to control insect populations is neem oil, which can smother pests.

In addition to root rot from overwatering, orchids also can become afflicted with various fungal diseases, such as anthracnose, phytophthora (black spots on leaves), botrytis, leaf algae, and petal blight.

Common Problems With Orchids

Once an orchid finds a suitable spot and falls into a routine, the plant should produce healthy growth and reward you with a beautiful bloom. However, subpar conditions can result in some common problems.

Leaves Shriveled and Wrinkled

Shriveled and wrinkled leaves indicate that the orchid is not receiving enough water. The culprit is often unhealthy roots.

If the roots are black and mushy, use a sterile cutting tool to remove the bad roots, and repot the orchid in a new growing medium. If the roots are plump and white or green, but the leaves are shriveled the plant is being under-watered.

Leaves Turning Yellow

Overwatering and root rot are often the cause of yellowing leaves. Give the orchid growing medium time to dry out between waterings. If that doesn't work, repot the plant and remove any unhealthy roots.

 Drooping Leaves

If the leaves are drooping, you may be underwatering the orchid. Orchids thrive with consistent levels of moisture. Another cause is too little light. Move the orchid to a spot with bright, indirect light.

Buds Dropping

If buds drop before they bloom, the plant is under stress. Investigate the orchid's environment and perhaps move it to a better spot. Look for the following possible issues and environmental conditions that might be affecting the plant:

• Under-watered or over-watered
• Swings in temperature due to a heating vent, air conditioner, or other drafts
• Nearby chemical fumes (paint or gas, for example)
• Placement near plants or fruits that are producing ethylene gas
• Low-humidity

Yellow or Brown Flowering Stems

The flowering stems can turn yellow or brown due to overwatering, sunburn from harsh light, lack of nutrients, or fungal infestation. Remember, it is normal for older flowering stems to turn brown after the blooms have fallen off.